A TWO WEEK BACKPACKING GUIDE THROUGH CHINA
In 2016, I made a decision in my life to no longer sit on my ass playing video games, and wasting my time watching the Simpsons reruns all day everyday till the end of time. I took it upon myself to start changing my bad habits as I had grown extremely tired of my circumstances at the time, and decided enough was enough. I always wanted to travel. I just didn’t know where to start. Luckily, I work in the restaurant industry and a few colleagues had shown me a possible way to travel on a budget. It’s called backpacking. A term I had never heard before until then. I can’t quite remember where they had traveled too specifically. But the idea was planted in my mind that day. That if they can do it, I can too. But there was one thing in my way. The fear of flying had always been something I struggled with. Hell, I don’t even ride rollercoasters due to this fear. But I knew if I ever wanted to see the world, I had to conquer that fear. So, I did what any sane person would do. Buy a 16 hour flight to a country of unknown terrain, complicated language, and rich history. The destination of choice – China.
This was my first time ever leaving the country as an adult and on my own; with nothing more then what I could fit into a Swiss school backpack. It was a very bold move indeed. But I decided that if I ever wanted to grow as an individual. Well, I would have to get out of my comfort zone. But I’m getting a head of myself. I want to take this opportunity to revisit the steps I did to educate and prep myself for this solo backpacking trip of a lifetime. Full disclosure: at this time in my life, I accepted what ever fate had in store for me.
Needless to say, it is and always will be my greatest accomplishment in my life!
RESEARCH
In doing research on this trip. I laid out a few set of important factors: destination points, research on city and local crimes (for safety purposes,) attractions, travel etiquettes, and finally, transportation options. You don’t want to get stranded in the middle of nowhere in a country in which people may or may not speak your language. If you know me by now, you know that I am as thorough as possible when it comes to planning any trips. So, I will do my best to give you my tips on traveling to China to the best of my knowledge. Not sure how much has changed since my visit in 2016, since I am now writing about it in 2022. But I’m sure much of this is still relevant today. Just please make sure to research the current guidelines for Covid-19.
Step one, setting a budget. This is most likely the most crucial part of the research and travel, as you don’t want to over or under spend on your trip. Before making a split decision like this. It is important that you do a little research prior to deciding on your budget as there maybe things you might not consider like weather shifts, transportation interruptions, visa charges, and now with Covid-19, things like flight delays. When I began my budget plans. The first step I made was to decide on the right dates to travel. Might I recommend my favorite app for this Hopper. It is a free third party app much like Sky Scanner that can help you pick out the right dates for your trip. They have this color coding system for their calendar that ranges from slow to peak seasons. I suggest picking 2 or maybe 3 dates, and decide which one would be the most affordable to plan a trip around. Keep in mind that weather is a huge factor when traveling. You don’t want to fly 16 hours to a country that has unbearable weather seasons. Luckily for me, the weather was cold but very much manageable. Once you are set on the specific dates. Wait! Patience is key when traveling on a budget. Hopper allows you to save the dates, and will give you tips on when to purchase the tickets at absolute best prices. I suggest doing this 6 months in advance to give yourself a little bit of wiggle room to purchase. When the time is right, book that flight!
After booking the flight, it is time to start deciding which cities you would like to visit. I stayed for two weeks. So, I divided my time in four provinces: Shanghai, Beijing, Xi’an, and Hunan. When I travel anywhere, I want to experience things very much like a local would. I feel this is the best way to truly experience life. But China is a very large country, and not one city is a like. So, I chose these four cities as China’s best representation as a whole. The night life and shopping streets of Shanghai, the more historical accurate representation and capitol of the country Beijing, the ancient imperial’s buried with history of Xi’an, and the southern villages surrounded by the majestic mountains of Hunan. All of these were in the same country, yet couldn’t have felt anymore different. If I could do it all over again. I wouldn’t have changed one city for another as each one of these had opened up a new world for me.
So, now with your cities in mind. It’s time to start booking your sleeping and transportation accomodations. It’s important that I mention this, and I should have mentioned this much sooner. But China in 2016, it was forbidden to use Google. Which includes Google Maps. I’m not sure if this has changed, as I do recall an article explaining that China lifted that rule with regulations intact. But this is neither here nor there. I advise you do your own research on this topic as the information pertaining to my trip could be slightly outdated. That being said, the locals and many travelers rely on VPN’s to get around the country. There are plenty to choose from in Google or Apple store. Knowing this information, I had to thoroughly research and know the city map by heart in case I was unable to access this information on my phone. I strongly advise you to do the same. As it maybe easier in some cities, and as I found out the hard way, harder in others. So, buy yourself a map of the country and cities you intend on visiting, and map out your destinations in advance so you know where and how to get there. Lonely Planet makes some solid city map guides for just about every city of every country, mostly. You can find them on Amazon for as low as $10 a map. Which together ran me about $40 dollars. A VPN can also cost around $10 for the whole month. Which in this case, I only needed for two weeks.
ACCOMMODATIONS
Now that you have your destinations in mind. Before booking your flight, please make sure to find out if a visa is required for your visit. As China (like many countries) require VISA’s depending on which country you’re traveling from. If you are from the States, like me, then it is required to apply for a visa. I went to my local Chinese Embassy in Los Angeles for my application. Be advised, this step can take several weeks as they will ask to keep your Passport for a background check in order to be approved for traveling. If I recall correctly, this step took at least three weeks, and it cost a hefty price. Mine was around $250 at the time. But I have traveling access for ten years should I choose to visit again, and I plan on it when the pandemic is officially over around the world.
So, now it’s time to start booking your sleeping accomodations and transportation. When it comes to traveling anywhere, I will always recommend the hostel life. At first, the thought of sleeping in a room filled with strangers was very intimidating. But just like you, these people whom come from all places of life, came here for the same experience as you, and that is a common interest you already have. The hostel life has taught me how to socialize with anyone. It is (from my experience) been nothing short of amazing just about every time, and I’ve even made new friends a long the way. This being said, Hostelworld is the app of choice for many when it comes to hostel life. It is very user friendly, with lots of pictures, descriptions, and reviews from most people that have visited recently. The best thing is you can book your dates, and only pay a sum payment. The full payment is made at the actual hostel. So, it’s sort of like making a down payment to reserve your spot for the dates. Just about every hostel has tour guides and recommendations for your visit. Feel free to message them prior to your booking to get a feel for your trip. Price per night can range from $10-$45 depending on the level of accomodations you’re looking for. Might I also recommend if you plan on visiting Shanghai and don’t mind spending a little extra, staying at Narada Boutique Hotel near the Shanghai Yu Garden. It was my first night in a different country. So, I choose to stay in a luxury room to ease my way into the culture shock. Best boutique hotel I have ever stayed at.
TRANSPORTATION
If you booked an international flight from the US or just about anywhere else in the world to Shanghai, China. Chances are you will be arriving at Shanghai Pudong International Airport (PVG). It is a very large airport, and my experience when arriving was overwhelming at first as many of the workers do not speak a lick of English and were not very pleasant to interact with. But I managed to find my way from the shuttle to the train station which in it of itself is an adventure of it’s own. At this point on my trip I was both equally scared and astonished by my surroundings. Since it was vastly different from the things I am use to. I arrived sometime in the mid-afternoon and had daylight working on my side cause it’s easier to locate things that way. As mentioned above, VPN’s are a nice help at times. But aren’t always reliable. Get that map! I knew where I was going, I just didn’t know how to get there from the airport. But don’t hesitate to ask around, someone is always happy to help. Might I suggest asking someone that works there of course; even if they aren’t so pleasant at times. There are several options of transportation, taxi’s (which I never recommend as they are known to be common scammers,) shuttles, and in my case the transportation of choice, was the Shanghai Maglev Train.
This form of transportation is very convenient, affordable, and will get you to your destination in a timely manner. At 300 Km/H you will arrive to Shanghai in over 7 minutes at full speed, and the ticket only costs around 50 RMB (which is roughly around $7) one way.
The Maglev is a little overwhelming at first, but just focus on your exit, and don’t get off too soon like I did when arriving to Shanghai. I was lucky to have at least gotten off on East Nanjing Rd. One of the busiest shopping streets in the world. Upon exiting the Maglev station underground, and walking up the stairs I would soon be greeted with music, lively shoppers, LED billboards, and an incredible amount of smells from delicious cart vendors on the streets. Pan handlers, entertainers, families, and tourists all gathered here in this divided street all enjoying each other’s company, and I took it all in. Overwhelming, but new and exciting! I will never forget that moment.
As mentioned prior- Beijing, like Shanghai, have the same Maglev system and is very is to maneuver around the city. Once, you learned this system. You won’t be needing taxi’s anymore. However, that being said. Xi’an and Hunan were much different as these provinces are further into the country. Which means less tourism, and less tourism equals to less forms of transportation. I had to rely on taxi’s and shuttles to get me from the airport to the hostels, and found myself pretty much walking everywhere in the city. I am sure Xi’an has a transportation system as well, I just didn’t know how to get around too much. So, with the exception of the hostel tour guide to the Emperor’s Qinshihuang’s Mausoleum Site, I just walked everywhere. TIP: if you plan on taking a taxi, it is good practice to ensure that the driver has the meter on before driving off. If at any point the driver turns of the meter or doesn’t turn it on to begin with. I advise you to kindly ask the driver to turn it on. If they refuse, get out of the car as soon as possible, it’s a scam!
PROVINCES
I decided after picking the destinations to do my due diligence, and pick out exactly how much time I wanted to spend in each province. In order to make a definite decision on dates and locations, I recommend you do your own research on attractions, restaurants, night life, trails, etc. Not every plan is right for everyone. But this is what I wanted to do while I was there. I made sure that each destination had one or two main attractions, as well as, a ton of other things I can accomplish in between. As you may or may not know, I chose Shanghai, Beijing, Xi’an, and Hunan for my four destinations. I will divide each city in paragraphs to make it more digestible along with tips, must sees, and so forth.
SHANGHAI
With a population of over 39 million people living in this metropolitan area, Shanghai is the most lively and popular urban destination of all of China. It is China’s largest financial hub, and in the heart of the city, is the Bund. A famous waterfront promenade set with colonial-era buildings. Across the waterfront known as the Huangpu River, is the view of Pudong’s futuristic skyline. Which includes the Shanghai Tower and the Oriental Pearl TV Tower. Both are unique and amongst the many beautiful sky scrappers in the area. Although I didn’t get a chance to visit the inside of these towers. I highly recommend at least spending a few days roaming the bund, as the view from below is spectacular both during the day and night. At night the who skyline lightens up the city.
Before heading directly to the Bund, make your way to Gucheng Park to people watch. I woke up around 6am the next morning to head to the park and pick up a cup of coffee at Shanghai Lao Yohourt Water Bar. It’s pretty much an ice cream parlor and bakery/convenient store for the locals. So, I grabbed my cup of coffee, walked around the bend to visit the bamboo trees. Before picking a perfect bench to sit and watch the locals start their morning routines. Looking back, I believe this was my first and only encounter with a bamboo garden. I felt at peace roaming through these trees and walkways; as my mind and body were balanced for the first time in a long time. As I sat and watched the locals, I was astonished at the view of it all. People exercising to local music, kids playing football with their classmates, the elderly roaming with their long time friends as they passed on stories after stories of their past (or at least that’s what I assume.) In the distance, the sound of busy streets as those needing to get to work where in a hurry and could not stop to observe the beauty that I perceived in that moment. It was mine alone to experience, and I cherish every moment of it ’til this day. Magnificent.
In the afternoon, might I recommend visiting Yuyuan Old Street. About a block a way from Gucheng Park. This famous street has been operating since 1907 with local shops and food vendors that remind me of the streets of Tijuana, Mexico. Only with beautiful traditional Chinese architecture from a bygone era. Among one of the few places that is remains reminiscent of the past in what is otherwise a primarily a modern western influenced city. Besides the many delicious food cart vendors, amazing souvenirs- great for gifts to bring home. Pro tip: bargaining with the shop owners is key in getting great deals. I picked up many incredible souvenirs for mere nickels and dimes. The most expensive being no more than $10 or $20 American dollars. I picked up nunchakus aka nunchucks for my 13 year old nephew at the time. In hindsight, probably not the best idea for a child. But he loved them none-the-less. How I got them through customs I will never know.
Located on Old Street, you can also find a few historical temples, old tea houses, and the iconic Jiuqu Bridge which looks absolutely gorgeous during the late evening. But most of all, I suggest you take half the day to visit the Yu Garden, which is located in Huangpu District. Very close to the Old City God Temple (another great attraction.) At least spend a solid two hours to take in all of it’s natural beauty. At around ¥40 ($5.50 US) this rough rocky terrain is met with beautifully designed traditional Chinese architecture and accompanied with statues of dragons and mythical creatures of ancient times. It is a calm and peaceful place that is perfect for relaxing. Truly one of my favorite places in all of China. Don’t forget to see the koi fish that swim in the large pond. It’s breathtaking!
After a nice relaxing stroll in the Yu Garden, make your way back towards the east and you’ll eventually end up at the Bund. Most likely Shanghai’s largest attraction, and an amazing sight to see. You may start from Xinkaire Rd. near Gucheng Park, and work your way North until you reach the Waibaidu Bridge. A romantic spot for couples to stroll down during the late evening. The bund is a nice walk; it can take up to half an hour at a steady pace, and there is plenty to see along the way. The view is nothing short of astonishing. From here you can see the many era’s of China’s growth and expansion as a country. From the view in the afternoon or evening you can see the famous Oriental Pearl and Shanghai Tower. Two of the countries tallest skyscrapers. With the Oriental Pearl being the sixth tallest TV and radio tower with a revolving and deck for sightseeing, and Shanghai Tower is considered a mega-tall skyscraper reaching a of over 2,073ft. That’s over 128-stories tall! Both of which you can purchase tickets to enter, and visit. I chose to see it from the Bund as I am travelling on a budget. Transportation alone can get pricey if you are taking a boat across. I found out later, that the Maglev train does have stops to that side of the city. So, if you are on a budget and choose to visit the towers. Maglev is your best option for transportation to that part of the city.
East Nanjing Rd. There is a saying in Shanghai that goes, “you haven’t been to Shanghai unless you’ve seen Nanjing Road.” Filled with modern and European-style buildings. This street is filled with many things to do. From shopping malls, famous department stores, local restaurants, along with Chinese culture and art that stretches out into the distance. This was the place I got lost when I arrived, and it was the perfect street to wander as I found my way to the hotel. It is a lively street and perfect place for the night life. I spent extra time here and allowed myself to take in everything around me.
So, here is the thing. If you know me, then you know that I am a Disney enthusiast. In fact, my first job was working as a food vendor at the Disneyland Resort in Anaheim, CA. I loved working there because it never felt like work. I’ve been a fan of Disney’s catalogue of movies since I was a child. The Lion King and Toy Story were my first memories seeing them in theaters, and since then I have pretty much watched every Disney theatrical release. So, when doing my research on Shanghai, I found out that Disneyland had opened a location in Shanghai, China. I knew then, that if I was heading to Shanghai, I couldn’t possibly miss my opportunity to visit the newly built Shanghai Disneyland Resort. I made sure to dedicate one whole day for this adventure as it was a bit out of the way from my hotel. The most affordable way to get to Shanghai Disneyland from the bund is by taking the Maglev. At just around $1-2 dollars and 1 hour of your time. You can get to the park no problem. This was my form of transportation; easy, affordable, and smooth ride there. I bought my ticket in advance on Shanghai Disney’s website. To prevent any disruptions to my plans. UPDATE: DUE TO COVID-19 THE PARK IS CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE.
At the moment of writing this post the operation of Shanghai Disneyland Resort is closed until further notice. But since I’m posting a blog about it. I want to share my personal experience of this magical place. Right off the bat, it was very different yet very familiar. It looks like Disneyland, it feels like Disneyland. But it was massively different in a unique and special way. This land felt much larger than it’s predecessor and the attractions more modern than those of the rides back home. Roaring Rapids, the Many Adventure’s of Winnie the Pooh, Seven Dwarf’s Mine Train, Dumbo the Flying Elephant, and Buzz Lightyear’s Planet Rescue were fantastic rides. But my favorite two attractions were Tron Light Power Run, and Pirate’s of the Caribbean: Battle for Sunken Treasure. These two alone are a reason to visit Shanghai Disneyland. Pirates of the Caribbean was so out of this world, that I literally jumped back on the boat 3x back to back to enjoy the experience again and again. I’ve never experienced a rollercoaster that was so high tech before. Truly a masterpiece of a ride, and I hope one day Disneyland Resort of Anaheim gets a face lift of it’s own. Chances are it won’t since I believe it was the last ride Walt Disney himself helped develop. One other noteworthy experience were the Gardens of Imagination, Marvel Universe, Shipwreck Shore, Alice in Wonderland Maze, and Camp Discovery. They were all interactive attractions with some like Camp Discover actually requiring challenging trials and gorgeous sceneries. I filmed a lot of my time in Shanghai Disneyland, and hope to put together a vlog about my experience on my YouTube channel. One very amusing thing to me was just how new the idea was to the locals. When asking for famous characters like Ariel, Donald, and even Mickey himself. Some of the employees had no clue what I was referring to. But I understand since the park itself opened up just a few months prior. I’m sure it’s as popular now as any Disneyland around the world. Side note: I plan on visiting every Disneyland around the world. It’s a part of my bucket list.
BEIJING
China’s historical capitol. This city has a history that stretches back 3 millennia’s. Much like it’s sister province Shanghai. Beijing is a more complex city as it’s the home of the Imperial Palace during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Being further up North, this province is much colder. Especially during the Fall/Winter season. Which I so happen to have gone during. But I came equipped for the occasion. Might I suggest you bring thermal undergarments, along with many long sleeves, sweaters, coats, and beanie’s for this part of the country. I can take the Maglev from Shanghai to Beijing. But seeing as I chose to go for 14 days, it made more sense to take the plane, as the price for the flight would have been the same as the Maglev overnight ride. It’s really your preference how you choose to arrive. Both options are great in my opinion. I chose this time around to stay at a hostel in Beijing. It was first time staying at a hostel. So, I was both excited and nervous as I was not sure what to expect. But 365 Inn – Hostel located on No. 55 Dazhalan Xijie St. Best part of this hostel was the location. About a little over a mile to reach all points of interest. The hostel was a bit rural but very welcoming. As for a first time experience it was great. The staff were kind and very helpful with requests and questions. They made me feel at home. After my initial visit, I decided then and there that I would no longer stay at hotels willingly. The hostel life is a better experience if you are looking for growth, new friends, and exciting adventures. All of which basically come in a package when you stay at hostels. Let’s not forget. Staying at hostels is the most affordable way of traveling. Once you stay in a hostel, chances are you’ll feel the same way.
As for landmarks to visit. There is plenty to see. The question to ask yourself is; how much time can you commit to each one? As there is so much to do, and in my case, so little time. Looking back now I wish I had spent a few extra days in Beijing. A few points of interests to consider are Qianmen St., National Museum of China, and the Summer Palace. I unfortunately, did not have enough time to visit these places due to a short traveling window, and time of the season. But I did however, get to visit historical sites, such as, the Temple of Heaven. Located in the South Eastern part of Central Beijing. This beautiful imperial complex building is known for it’s symbolic layout, distinctive structure, and impressive decoration. A location in which the Emperors would visit to worship the Gods and pray for good harvests. It is surrounded by a massive park that most notably resembles that of Central Park in New York. As breathtaking as the temple is to be around. I suggest spending a few hours roaming the park that surrounds the temple. There are plenty of tourists attraction to see, and noteworthy locations for photography. But for me, walking down Changlang and seeing all the locals playing chess, along with other forms of board games was a sight to see. The people of this city seem so peaceful and happy here. Don’t forget to wonder around the many infinite blocks of trees near Beitianmen. The trees here are a site to see.
On a separate day, walk up north from the hostel or take the maglev if you prefer. Which ever suits your experience best. I did both. You can take the Maglev straight to Zhengyangmen and the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong. You can explore this area rather quickly. So, take your time. Further up this location you’ll find yourself at the historical Tiananmen Square. It is a very wide city square in the heart of the city. Near the famous Tiananmen Gate also known as the Gate of Heavenly Place. A national emblem of China. Getting around this part of city is complicated at first, as the city is heavily protected with police, camera’s, and secret service. As the Forbidden City lays just across the street. You can’t walk straight across, instead, you’ll have to wonder around and get lost like I did until you somehow magically end up on the side of the street you are looking for. It gets easier from there. Just know it’s not a straight shot to the Forbidden City. Once you arrive, you can purchase a ticket into the historical attraction. The price of entrance can run you about 40¥, which is about $6 US. The Forbidden City is the largest imperial palace. The home of over 24 emperors. Most notably that of the Ming and Qing dynasty. Surprisingly, there are not trees to be seen in the entire city. It’s by design to keep birds out, which preserves the beauty of the architecture. It is considered by many to be a divine place. The city is incredibly large in scoop, and filled with historical statues, paintings, and spare rooms. With large red walls that reach as high as the skies, and the architecture-axial symmetry; this palace represents the supreme power of the emperors, which were bestowed upon by Heaven, and is a polarizing look into the past.
When you’re done with sightseeing, and have spare time for shopping. I recommend taking a stroll to the Oriental Plaza. Another futuristic building in the heart of old China. Here you will find many great food vendors in the food court at great prices! But the high end corporations contain expensive products. I just like to window shop while remaining warm during the cold winter season. A bit large of a place but plenty of things to do here. Once you complete your first go around or two. You can head back out towards Waingfujing Night Market for exotic meats. This was the first time ever seeing deep fried beetles, scorpions, churanchula, and crickets on a stick… Yum! This street is just a few long blocks, and typically opens up when the Sun goes down. This night market becomes the busiest street in the town when you’re looking for a snack. Open from 6:00pm to 9:00pm every day, this place is home to over 100 stalls, so you have plenty options to choose from. Try the scorpion, it taste like chicken!
Of course there’s one thing you must try if you’ve never had it before, and that is Peking Duck. In most countries, this delicacy is top tier on menus. Which typically means, you are going to spend top dollar for it. But not in Beijing. Although it’s still considered a delicacy to locals, the price is way much more affordable. I don’t recall the actual name of the restaurant I was lucky to stumble upon. But it was very near to the 365 Inn hostel down Tieshuxie St. You’ll see it, it’s very hard to miss. I treated myself to a fine dining experience one night, and I got a whole roasted Peking Duck, with Saki, and Tsing Tao beers. A bit of an indulgence for food, I have. Why I said it like Yoda, I have no idea. The Peking Duck is a bit salty and a very tough chew compared to chicken. But toss a little bit of sweet and spicy sauce in there, and there’s a magical party in your mouth! Needless to say, I felt important during this dinner as the waiters and cooks treated me like family.
You don’t fly halfway across the world to one of the largest and most prosperous countries in the world, and not visit one of the world’s greatest wonders of the world! The Great Wall of China to be precise. I was just asked today by my nephew why I chose to visit China for my first time backpacking, and it was hard to come down to one factor at the time. But having some time to think that question over. The answer was simple. Since I was a young child, I was always a bit curious of the Great Wall. It amazed me to know that humans can go to great lengths to building structures far beyond the capacity of human potential, and it always inspired me in one way or another. As a kid, I remember always been drawn to Asia. There’s just something I can’t really pinpoint about it. But it’s speaks to me in ways that my own background doesn’t. Maybe it’s my upbringing in a rooted Chicano background, or maybe it’s the curiosity I have of other’s cultures. What ever it is, it’s certainly captivating. Not to say that I am not interested in my culture. In fact, taking this trip had opened me up to learning more about my ancestors. There’s plenty of similarities in our differences. But both are equally as important and inspiring. The Great Wall of China, was the main factor in determining my final decision on picking out my destination. I figured if I was going on a one way ticket, I sure as hell better make it the greatest adventure I’ve ever had.
So Eddie, you ask, how did you get to the Great Wall? Great question, as mentioned above, I was lucky that my hostel had a travel guide package available on arrival. I don’t recall the total cost of the trip since I don’t have records to look it up. This makes it difficult to recollect the cost. But I can say that it was fairly affordable, but also one of the most expensive attractions in my over all journey. But worth more then what I paid for. The package included a group tour guide, and transportation both there and back, and also a fancy dinner at a local mom and pop restaurant, plus walk through a farmer’s market in a local town near the bottom of the trail which is where I picked up my farmer’s hat. Also known as a dǒu lì or conical hat. A traditional hat worn by farmer’s of Southern East Asia to keep there heads cool in the summer, and dry in the rainy season. I still have the hat hanging in my closet as a reminder of my beginnings and journey in life. It brings me so much joy just talking or thinking about it. When considering the trip up the Great Wall, just remember it is a massive wall that spans over 6,000 kilometer’s across the vast parts of China. For any Americans reading this; that is over 3,728 miles long. Mutianyu is the most recognized part of the Great Wall, and it has been best-restored to it’s natural state. This is the section I chose to hike, and I highly suggest you do the same.
Upon arrival, you have a few options. The first is hike to the Great Wall, which means spending the entire afternoon hiking the vast mountain to reach the Great Wall, I mean after all, it is built on the tips of the mountain. Take a bus or rent a car and drive the curvy and dangerous roads (not recommended during Winter season,) or the best option in my opinion is taking a cable car to the top of the mountain. I find this one to be the most adventurous, most cost and time efficient of the options available. It was the best option as we were time constrained due to the possible snow storm that had been heading towards our direction. The cable car ticket cost around 140¥ round trip, and takes about 30-minutes to get to the top of mountain.
The exploring begins once you arrive at the top of the mountain. Be prepared for a casual but scenic hike while you’re up there. The Mutianyu Great Wall is the longest part of the Great Wall, and fully-restored. It’s also usually the less crowded with plenty watch towers to explore. I highly suggest you take the entire day to explore this place, and consider taking a private tour rather than a group tour as I did. As fun as it was to explore with others staying at my hostel. It was very limiting in time. If I recall, I spent a total of 2-3 hours on the mountain. I’m sure I mentioned this earlier, but the dinner we had after the hike was very much incredible, and remains my number two favorite meal of the trip. This impressive architect has been standing for over 1,400 years. I enjoyed every moment of this hike, and since has remained my peak hiking experience (pun intended.)
XI’AN
When planning my two week backpacking trip out to China. Guangzhou was considered mainly because I thought it would be cool to see a giant panda bear. But I don’t really subscribe to zoos or aquariums. So, I decided on the next best province in my opinion. That place is called Xi’an. Home of the famous Emperor’s Qinshihuang’s Mausoleum Site Museum. The home of the ancient sculptures known as the Terracotta warrior’s. A collection of sculpture’s that depict the armies of Qin Shi Huang, he was the first emperor of China. Along with his burial ground back in 210-209 BCE, the emperor had these statues built with the purpose to protect the emperor in his afterlife. These figures had been discovered around 1974 by local farmers in Lintong County just outside the city of Xi’an. If I recall correctly, it took about an hour trip to get to the mausoleum via tour guide that I bought straight from my hostel. This is by far a very particular location I had in mind, as it is a huge culture appreciation at my workplace.
I didn’t do much in the city as my window for sightseeing was incredibly small, the weather was unbearable to be out, and I wasn’t very familiar with getting around the city. If I remember correctly, I had to take a taxi from the airport just to arrive to my hostel within the Fortification of Xi’an. A large wall structure dividing the city of Xi’an from other neighboring cities. Incredible piece of work to think about. An incredible large structured wall surrounding the city is a powerful statement to the ability of mankind. Like imagine driving down the 101 or 5 freeway towards Los Angeles, and seeing a large red wall that basically hides every building within the city limits. Only two ways in, otherwise it will take you quite some time to enter the city. That’s what I remembered most about the city itself. I spent the morning trying to walk around the city but having a hard time finding crosswalks. People probably thought I was out of my freaking mind to be walking towards cars on the streets. But I couldn’t find any other entrance into the city. Don’t take my advice on that. I am sure you can find an entrance into the city. But this was the fastest way in and out of the city.
Like I mentioned, I spent most of my time in my hostel recovering from all my traveling along the way. For my humble abode during my stay, I hunkered down at Xi’an Ancient City Youth Hostel located in Lianhu district. I spent my time enjoying a nice non-brand cola beverage and trading stories with the bartender the entire time spent here. Wish I remembered her name. But she was a delightful human being. The hostel was in the heart of the city and only walking distances from many attractions, such as; the aforementioned Ancient City Wall, the Great Mosque of Xi’an, and Bell Tower of Xi’an. If I had more time to spend in this city, I would have allowed myself an extra day of wondering. I’m sure there are plenty of gems worth searching for in this great but small city in the heart of China.
Hunan
That leaves me with my final destination of my two week backpacking trip all over China. For the last stop, I decided to choose a more rural location deep in the country that would be more of a challenge for me as a backpacker. I settled on the province of Hunan. As it was not only going to be struggle. But an amazing adventure filled with uncertainty. Full disclosure: this was part of the trip in which I knew there might not be a turning back as it is rarely a destination for the common traveller. That means not a lot of locals that can translate for me or possibly the idea that Google Maps would not work. I had to rely on composition, understanding of my knowledge of this province, adaptability, and willingness to be comfortable with uncomfortability. In short, this was scary from the start.
Why? You may be asking yourself, did I chose such an obscure province to travel when I had no prior experience of the terrain. To that I say, a journey without risk is no real adventure. Foolish? Perhaps. But it is something I live by today. In all honesty, when doing my research on places to visit. I came across a post on Tripadvisor that peaked my interest. The catalyst was a gem by the name of Zhangjiajie National Forest Park. A beautiful 12,ooo acre forest known best for it’s unique pillar-like mountain formations. They can be seen through out the park, and upon reaching the top of the mountain through treacherous steps and thin air. You will be graced with the beauty that is the top of Avatar Hallelujah Mountain. That is right. This national forest park is part responsible for the inspiration James Cameron had for developing the wonderful world of Avatar. These landscapes were the foundation for the world he brought to the big screen many years back. I can see why he was so inspired by these monumental mountains. So, strong and yet so peaceful. I found myself in full serenity and liberated by the wonders of this forest, and have yet to feel the same way for any other national parks I’ve been to since.
In order to get to the mountain alone requires a Bailong elevator. In which I decided was too scary to try. So, I took the next best option. A thirty minute lift halfway to the top of the mountain by cable cart. The ticket for a round trip cable car ride cost me around CNY 67, which will run you a little over $10. Not an expensive fee to see one of the worlds greatest kept secrets. I don’t recall how I got my ticket. I am sure, I bought it in advance online or perhaps the hostel I had stayed in provided me a ticket at face value for a one-day visit. In fact, I am sure that is how it happened. If you look online now. There are plenty sites that offer an excursion hike as part of a package tour guide. Which I never recommend. But if you feel like seeing this place at least once in your life without the probable dangers of trekking it alone. Be my guest. But that isn’t what I am about.
During my hike up this fantasy of a forest I met a Russian couple around my age at the time. Gregoriy and Anya were a delight. They were gracious enough to help me along the path, and we developed a bond all the way to the top. Thank you guys for tagging along with me, and keeping me company, and I hope you are out there living a life full of more adventures. Xie xie. They were also responsible for many of the pictures of me at the national park. Just a little advice when choosing this destination. Make sure you are in great shape as this hike is no walk the park and requires a lot of steep climbing to the top. It is easily one of the hardest hikes I’ve endured in my life. But an unforgettable experience none-the-less. Another tip for you: as cute as the monkeys may seem at first. These are actual wild animals in their natural habitat. Do not feed these monkeys as they can become hostile towards you once you stop feeding them. Anya had learned this the hard way, when an aggressive alpha male had grown tired of the anticipation and decided to attack from above while another gang of monkeys yanked the backpack from her back. Thank goodness she was unharmed and only incurred a few scratch marks. I made damn sure to hold on to my backpack real tight as I couldn’t afford to lose mine to a pack of wild monkeys or I wouldn’t be here now writing this post. Ha.
Don’t let that stop you from experiencing this great gem of a national park. There is plenty to see here. Like Pandora the iconic mountain top most notably seen in James Cameron’s Avatar. Perhaps the walk through the Gold Whip Stream will delight you on your way to the top to reach the Yellow Stone Village and Yangjiajie Scenic Area. But my favorite part of this trek was the Macaques aka monkeys of Zhangjiajie. Although our terrifying and aggressive. I couldn’t help but be awe of these incredible creatures. So calm in the presence of mankind. As if they had nothing to fear. Truly an incredible sight, I’ve been graced to experience several times now. But this one, this one was my first.
When planning out my trip to this destination. There was one attraction I had in mind the most, and that was the Stairway to Heaven. Unfortunately, due to the season. The weather was fiercely cold. Which made every pavement a slippery slope. So, the national park has no choice but to shutdown the attraction for safety purposes. So, I was unable to experience it for myself. But I highly recommend that you put this one on your itinerary. You will find this destination south of the Guanliping residential district. Another cable car required to reach this national park. Tianmen National Forest Park is another beautiful sight to see. As I mentioned prior. The weather during this time was incredibly cold and the clouds were so dense that they produce heavy rain at times. Part of my cable car trip was virtually unviewable as the clouds were so thick you couldn’t see 5 feet away from you. The weather was so intense that the National Park had less visitors during my day of visit. Which made the experience for me liberating. If you choose to visit during this time, and should the national park be open for public. Please, watch your step. Just about every stone you step is a slippery slope that can prove to be deadly should you accidently slip off the side of the mountain.
I made friends with a trio of local college grads from the town over that had traveled by train to hike Tianmen. Although there was a complete language barrier. We accompanied each other any way on this treacherous hike as our chances safety were much higher together as a group. When I say the fog was so dense you couldn’t see 5 feet. I really meant it! You literally could not see what lies ahead. Which oddly enough made my hike across the famous Glass Walkway on the side of the mountain a fearless experience. I know it sounds crazy, but I felt more comfortable not seeing the huge 4,600 ft drop that awaited me below. Just look it up for yourself. It is a jaw dropping experience. Definitely my most danger defying experience for sure. A one and done deal for me that I can mark off my bucket list. If you attempt this pathway, don’t look down. You don’t want to get vertigo looking down while trying to get across.
The hardest part of visiting Hunan was not reaching the national park’s themselves. But rather, finding your way around town. As I had previously mentioned. This was the first time in my two week excursion that I had truly encountered a complete language barrier with the locals. It was clear to me that they did not get many visitors often except from their neighboring countries. I highly doubt they’ve ever encountered a young Mexican-American from the city where dreams come true aka Hollywood. I still recall the first night I had arrived. I took a taxi directly to my destination as I had no other options of getting around, and I stayed in a boutique hostel near Wulingyuan Road. However, it seems that it may no longer be open for business or at least I can no longer locate it’s whereabouts. Which would be a shame. Since it was easily my favorite hostels I’ve ever had the privilege of staying at. But with a quick Google search you can find a few dozen options in the local province of Wulingyuan District. It’s possible that they may have just moved locations or changed the business name. You might get lucky and find it. The district itself is very small with no McDonald’s insight. I know cause upon arrival. The feeling of over exhaustion had hit me like a ton of bricks and with that came hunger. So, I decided to roam the streets at midnight in search of the golden arches shining bright in the darkest night. But to no avail. After much contemplation roaming the streets and for fear of getting lost or turning down the wrong street. I decided it was best to just return back to the hostel. Luckily for me, I stumbled across a poorly lit mom and pop shop. Although I could not read the symbols, I knew all too well, the distinct smell of umami, spices, and aromatic flavours. Food! At least, I found myself staring into an empty hole in the wall restaurant only three people sitting down at a table near the entrance. I figured this had to be a small eating establishment if it had costumers, right? Well, I decided the hunger got the best of me and I gave into temptation. Upon walking into this tiny shop. The lady in the group stood up and greeted me with delight and wonder. They were not costumers. I was staring at owner, the server, and the cook. Immediately, they were baffled by my existence in their establishment. I never felt more like a fish out of water. But that curiosity in the woman’s face quickly dissipated, and she greeted with a joyful smile. Although, I couldn’t understand her and her I. She did her absolute best to make me feel at home. I gave me a menu in which I could not read. So, I pointed to a picture on the wall, and said, give me that! It was a spicy beef dish of some sort. What I did not expect was that this little shop in this small town would end up being the best meal I have ever enjoyed! I can’t stress this enough. I can still taste the flavors just thinking about it. I decided that I would eat here everyday meal of everyday I was staying in town, and I did. Every time I came in, I saw no one else in here except for the owner, the server, and the cook. But we quickly became friends. We shared pictures of our lives, and we attempted our best to break the language barrier. The woman, although I did not know her name, was the sweetest stranger I have ever met, and I am glad I shared that wonderful moment with her. I took a picture with her for my memories and she wrote me a note before I left. But I never was able to crack the code on what she said on the note. Still, it is a memory I will forever cherish.
Final Thoughts
So, here we are at the end of the Great Blog of China. I hope you were able to get some solid information from this post that will both encourage and help you decide if traveling to China is for you. I know we are in some weird times post Covid-19, and I don’t know if many of these beautiful destinations and attractions are open to the general public. I advise you to do your research if you decide to visit this beautiful country. Also, one thing I forgot to mention to you in the beginning of the post. Is don’t believe everything you hear. Especially, if it comes from a news source or someone who has never visited the country for themselves. The news is designed to scare you and sell you advertisements. If you really want to know. There are other ways of finding out the truth. Like seeing it for yourself much like I did. This country is beautiful and historical. I am incredibly happy to have conquered my fears of flying and experienced it alone. I left my house a curious person, and came back a confident man. Till this day, China is still my favorite country I had the privilege of exploring. I hope your experience is just as good as mine or better. Be aware of etiquette in this country. Slip your noodles aloud so the chef knows you enjoy his/her meal. Spitting is common and don’t take offense. Be comfortable with people being in your space. After all, there are over 1.4 billion citizens in China. Most importantly, be mindful and respectful of the countries history, people, and political views. After all, you wouldn’t want to attract any bad attention to yourself. As long as you follow these etiquettes, you’ll be fine.
China is a rich country filled with friendly people, delicious dumplings, lively cities, and historical monuments. There is plenty to see and visit, and never a dull moment. Thanks for reading!
Live your best life.
-Eddie Towers